Inqaluit

12 June 1984

At five tomorrow we fly to Inqaluit. Tove is yet packing, flustered and anxious, she moves about the house in a flurry, the innards of her bags splayed across every surface of the kitchen. She moans when I laugh at her, complains that Sebastian has been complacent when explaining in detail what she will need. Is worried about the sledges, how much weight they can carry, a number that has fluctuated wildly depending on whom is consulted. I try to hold her, to calm her but any attempt makes her more agitated. Tell her that anything she forgets we can pick up in Inqaluit. This is said half joking. She responds by asking me, What again are you going to do on this trip? 

We’ve already gone over this question nearly a dozen times and she knows that asking it again is merely a provocation. I try to ignore the barb and retreat into the basement where I sit in front of the fish tank with a plate of brownies and a tub of ice cream. In the dark I watch the bamboo shark glide effortlessly along the bottom of the tank, its alternating bands of black and white moving through the dim light of the water. I wonder if this is the last time I will see her, if the directions I’ve left for Thomas are clear enough. We will return in a mere six weeks time yet I already feel as though this is our strange goodbye. Tove would be happy to see the shark disappear, doesn’t understand my strange fascination with the animal, how I can watch it and feel soothed.

13 June 1984

I’d fallen asleep in the basement chair and was awoken in a rush by Tove, a puddle of melted ice cream running down my chest. Last ones to board the flight after much running through the airport, a broken wheel on my luggage and a bag strap snapped on Toves. She waits until we’re aboard the tiny plane to tell me she didn’t sleep the night before and then proceeds to pass out, her snoring loud and drawing the attention of other passengers who lean forward and raise their eyes in disbelief when they see the diminutive stature of the person emitting such a baritone rumble.

Hard to tell if I am excited or nervous, either way I find it impossible to sleep on either of our flights and keep opening and closing one of the books I’ve brought, the words like undecipherable scratches on the page. Wonder again for a long stretch what Tove has actually told Sebastian about what I know. Will he resent my appointment on the trip or will he welcome the fact that I’ve not held this thing further out in the light. Something like this might undoubtedly belittle his status in the professorial landscape but I doubt that is foremost in his thinking. He was given final say on the team and here I am. So.

15 June 1984

We reached Inqaluit in the midst of a passing winter gale. That is what the straw faced pilot referred to the white out blizzard occurring outside of the windows on our approach to the insignificant town. For three hours we carved shuddering circles over the icy runway and then finally made our approach only a minute after the pilot was overheard telling the one crew member that we had to make a go of it before our landing gear froze over completely. I’ve never before been so happy to walk out into a tempest squall and slide my feet over frozen ground. Tove laughed at my excitement and suggested we make a move to this little outpost of a capital city. I laughed and squeezed her tight, the billowiness of our puffy downs rounding out the space between us. For a second she dropped her head to the side and smiled the way a much younger Tove did when I held her so but then just as quickly her expression hardened over when the planes hatch was opened and the jumble of bags inside were cemented together in a sheen of cloudy ice.

We spent the next day moving about the one tiny electronics store in town trying to get our gear to recover, a smiling Inuit blowing lightly on our cameras and sensors as Tove cursed from the bathroom where she held her microscope beneath the hand dryer. The trip has been doomed from the beginning, Tove told me, nearly in tears when we made it back to the high school we were using as a launch pad up on the hill above town. We spread our gear out across the history classroom and sat down in the students hard chairs staring up at the wall. We had some several hundred miles still to sail by boat and then an extra possible hundred more by sledge before we would be at the proposed beginning of our search. A distance that stretched nearly three feet on the large map of the arctic archipelago that hung in front of us.

18 June 1984

Two other expedition members arrived today, colleagues my wife had yet to meet, Alexandre, little more than a boy, diminutive in size and speech, frazzled and wiry. He did little more than shake my hand before he was on up the hill, two bags dragging nearly through the snow behind him. I was told not to take it personal by Anton, an older Russian man, a native of Moscow whose been living in Kamchatka for the last two decades. He was the near opposite of the bespectacled frenchman, genial and lighthearted, like an old friend whose come to visit and is content with merely seeing the sights. He’s more of an explorer than any sort of scientist per se which makes my inclusion in the team seem less obtrusive. There is still little I feel I can offer this group but to know that another feels the same is heartening to say the least.

We have collected nearly everything we’ll need and now wait mostly on Sebastian to arrive with the boat we’ve chartered, an old icebreaker on loan from the Danish. The HDMS Aleksander. Anton laughed when we told him the name and Alexandre leveled him with a playful slap across his broad chest. On a good day she smells like fermented piss and creaks like a red light carriage. He has taken her before through the Northwest passage and on into the USSR. Hoots in delight or astonishment that somehow they will cross paths again. Groups in delighted mood, a bit of vodka before bed and Tove suddenly reverts back to her old self, crawling silently over my crotch as Anton snores on the next cot and Alexandre muddles with gear in the room over.

21 June 1984

More than a week in Inqaluit and I find myself going slightly mad. Sun does little more than wink behind the horizon. I feel as though she is watching us. Doesn’t trust us on our own. Tove stares at me wide eyed when I tell her this. Can tell she is holding back a laugh. One thats filled with a bit of worry considering we are only going further North where the sun will never leave, will merely circle us like a vulture, praying on our feeble minds.

An asylum. Penal colony. Nut house. How the locals keep their wits about them I am unsure. Landscape is rocky and rootless, an unrepentant sky surrounded by a limitless expanse of water and ice. Anton sits and plays cards with me, teaches me brusque words in Russian and Danish, nods his head like a sage when I muse on about this uninhabitable place. Do I offend him I wonder, is his home no different than this? For an hour I walked out on the ice today, East NorthEast, the compass drifting as I carefully slid further into the Arctic. A bearing was nearly impossible to render and I became nauseous at the thought of us out there on the ice without the hinting plumes from Inqaluit to lead me back. A band of little Inuit boys had followed me out and were atop the knoll behind me when I turned back. They fired rocks out across the ice with crude homemade slingshots and practiced the swear words they knew in English, shouting them across the empty expanse and laughing, puffing their chests out. Polar bear, the one told me as they followed behind on the way back to town, eat you. 

Not cut out for this line of work I venture to Anton back at the camp, the sun swirling in dizzying circles. Will make you fuller man, he intones.

23 June 1984

We’ve finally cast off. Sebastian arriving yesterday in a huff. Had stopped in the Shetland Islands for nearly a week, a gaggle of drunk Danes cast off the ship and a few motley Shetlanders brought on. Is rightly fuming. Nearly ran aground an underwater shelf off the Orkneys on the second day out, the useless Danes skipping through their duties in a haze. Has little more than perfunctory cheer for our introduction. Thought he would be a larger man. Slight in stature but commanding in presence. I joke to Tove that Napoleon must be somewhere along his familial tree. He has yet to do little more than yell, at the Danes and Shetlanders, at us, at the sledge dogs, at the howling wind. I wonder how long he can keep it up. I have the over on six days, Anton the under. Tove mostly laughs at the man. Refreshing.

Our trip is all sea and air. A sprawling inky black to starboard side and a relentlessly glaring sheet of crackling white to port. Little changes but I feel comfort in the movement and the myriad tasks at hand. I haul gear and man lines alongside the grizzly Shetlanders whom I find nearly impossible to understand. Marvel at the fact that we speak the same language. Anton was not far off, the whiff of piss is ever present on the old boat but Sebastian is somewhat of a neurotic so one young boys entire job is to keep the boat clean. Nearly as much disinfectant on board as booze.

25 June 1984

Tove and I don’t talk much but I feel more at ease in her presence than I have for some while. I can see why she derives as much pleasure and intrigue from her work as she does. We are the only couple on board, Tove the only female, and I sense some sort of softness applied to me. Alas, being a writer, a man of the mind and not of the whip as Anton likes to say, does not help my cause. I work as hard as the other men though and avoid public displays of affection as does Tove. We have our own quarters at least, a small room no larger than an airplane toilet, a depressed cot elevated over our chests of gear. The slim shaft barely fits both of our bodies so we’ve taken to hot bunking like most of the crew, sharing several minutes of togetherness during our one overlapping sleep hour, our bony appendages rattling off the metal walls and pipes as we assuage what little passion can be contrived of this place.

Anton confides in me today that his wife of twenty four years has all but left him. He seems no more remorseful than one might be for the loss of a pet. He says that love was never a problem, it was merely that he was never around. When I ask if he regrets that, he humps his shoulders and looks out towards the flat black sea, the reflection in his obsidian eyes like twin shafts of coal. He tells me that his heart has turned cold over the years, that he cannot help leaving despite the fact that he would never want to destroy his family. I tell him that age makes all of us a bit colder, a bit more hardened. This makes him smile. He does not ask about Tove and I. This makes me wonder what he knows.

To turn the corner we muse about the odds of finding love in the arctic. Anton mimes cuddling up to a seal on the cold wet deck, his limbs flailing as some of the Danes stare dumbfounded from their hidey holes. On a fleeting note he tells me that Alexandre is a gay. Makes sense I respond. The words crinkle the corner of his mouth.

28 June 1984

Tove, Sebastian, Alexandre, and Anton all disembark today in a rubber dinghy. I feel my heart drop slightly when Sebastian reaches out to Tove and hoists her gently into the boat and onto the bench next to him. They confide quietly and easily without turning to see if I have seen them. Love is a fickle feeling. I’ve been given the day off and spend it mostly reading within my cabin, my heart turning over with the sight from the morning. My mind a wretched tousle of self castigation and self righteousness. I cannot change how anyone else feels. I should appreciate all of Tove’s relationships, how they foster her growth, how they round her out. Yet I can’t stop picturing them together. What are they doing out there, what are they talking about. Are they planning a future that has nothing to do with me? Are they even getting along? She wouldn’t choose a man like Sebastian I tell myself. I have more to offer than that angry little man yet if I believe that what am I really doing here. Did I just come on this trip so that I could keep an eye on my wife. I am supposed to trust and believe in her, am I not? Have we already failed if that is the case? Does everyone else pity me because they can see why I’m here but I cannot? These are the things I think about as the hours tick by ever so slowly and the words of the novel in front of me seem to wash away across the page.

I need to stop this debilitating spiral so I leave my cabin for a walk about the ship. It is warmer today, the breeze almost pleasant as I stroll back and forth alongside the starboard bow. A luminesce sun dog hovers on the horizon above the placid waters of the inlet and I find my gaze lost in the prisms of refracted ice. Solhound, one of the young Danes shouts, breaking the spell. The fresh air has done its trick and I feel a bit relieved as I venture back below deck, ducking carefully beneath the pipes that jut at random across the path, my vision still daunted by the trio of suns that appear in my sight. Be it that or my general muddled haze I reach for the door to my quarters and turn it to find the wiry Frenchman on his knees, the young cleaning boys member swelling his mouth. I slam the door immediately and hope that I was unseen but only a second later Alexandre appears and brushes past me without a word down the hall. I find Tove and Anton a minute later in the mess hall and sit down beside them without a word. I wonder what will come of this. Do Alexandre and the boy know that their secret is safe with me.

29 June 1984

I wake to a clanging of metal and the deafening roar of the ships engine being thrown about. The cabin is dark and my first thought is that we are sinking, that I will die in these frigid waters as I watch my wife cling to that decrepit Quebecois crab. I stumble to the deck expecting to find some frenzied chaos but instead see the young crew hoisting a pair of Esquimaux on a taut line, their round faces harried and vacant. Through some halting Danish and erratic gesturing it seems that the pair had been sledging across the frozen waters of a thin inlet when they broke through. Their sledge, burdensome with seal meat and provisions from a long hunt, was yanked down, halted only by the pull of the dogs, whom, slowly succumbing to the increasing weight were, in a howling fury, dragged under as well. I tried to picture the scene, the chaos, the noise and desperation of the tethered animals. The image leaves me feeling gutted. Several of the dogs survived though, the Esquimaux indicate, as they watch the faces of the crew wrench. Some of the tender young Danes rush to the port side rail and peer over anxiously but the Esquimaux wag their heads, bring their fingers to their mouth. Death provides life.

In a hurry to phone Iqaluit with the good news, a young first mate slipped on the deck and landed awkwardly atop the sat phone, crushing it. I feel as though Iqaluit proper might have heard Sebastians castigation without the aid of the phone. Needless to say, we are left now with one working satellite phone and a crew that works silently and without protest.

2 July 1984

After the Esquimaux were plucked from the ice by a helicopter we continued our voyage, North by Northwest along the gnarl fingered coast of Baffin Island, the fjords growing icier and more prominent, solid slabs of granite rising like knuckles from the barren land, their steep faces bending over the rocky coast as if peering down over us. Steely clouds huddled over the peaks so that any light was diffuse and somber, etching everything around in a funereal pitch. At mid-afternoon we passed a lonely polar bear sitting on his rump at the edge of a jagged headland, his face painted a deep crimson red, the slim remains of a seal at his feet. He seemed to be watching us, his black eyes unwavering, the dogs tethered below howling with the scent of blood.

Alexandre pulled me aside today to thank me for helping as much as I have been throughout the ship, his eyes barely able to meet my own. I nodded. We both knew what was actually being said. He stood silently for an extra beat and then put his hand on my shoulder and leaned in so that his warm breath startled my neck. He meant to start but then coughed and drew back, his thin face looking worn. I stood awkwardly while he doubled over, his skeletal fingers curled over spare lips. I asked if he was alright but he shook off the question as if it were nonsense. Finally he straightened out, his usual feeble hunch disappearing so that he gazed down at me and quietly he said, Sebastian has no plan for this expedition other than to win your wife.

5 July 1984

I dreamt that a brood of termites had crept into our home and begun to devour it piece by piece. Their maggoty little bodies climbing over everything, slithery and incessant. I call for Tove but no one else is home and the support beams of our old house seem to be slowly dissolving, softening. I swipe them off the mushy wood and crush them under my boot but seconds later a thousand others fill their place. In a panic I run outside and stand in the cold lawn, turn my gaze back to the house but it looks the same, like nothings changed.

Tove is pressed against the wall on the far side of the bunk this morning, her face turned away from me. We didn’t talk before I stumbled down here and she hadn’t tried to wake me while climbing in. I lay there, an acrid stench of cheap lager filling the damp bunk and take some slight solace in the fact that at least I haven’t so wronged her that she couldn’t come back to me. How foolish. All of it. I work myself into such a state that I seem to shoot out of the bed when I get up. The adrenaline and acidic churn of my stomach have me shaky as I pluck clothes from the exposed beams where I’ve hung them for the night and slide them on in the dark.

Earlier in the day the crew had thrown a party, lining up during mess lunch when nearly the whole ship was awake and hollering out the star spangled banner. I had entirely forgotten about the 4th until I heard their garbled crooning, their eyes all directed at me, the lone American, glasses of booze poured and shoved into my hands. I had tried to be cordial, good-humored, but then I saw Sebastian in the rear of the lounge, a smirk on his face and I turned into somewhat of a beast, downing whatever was handed to me and laying into the crews provocations. Duties had been relaxed for the day which meant that it all quickly devolved into a frenetic slosh.

Puke was plastered all over the stern of the boat while piss sloshed along the deck and amidst it all, there I was, befuddled and berating. I threw Antons cold hard phrases around with ill regard and drew raucous laughs from the Danes and Shetlanders nearly half my age. Boxing gloves came out from someones hold and unsteady, glazed faces traded cock eyed blows. America versus the USSR, someone shouted, and the gloves were thrust into Anton and mines hands, an array of wet currency littered the deck, bets shouted out and then we touched gloves. I had reach on the old Russian but he had sobriety on his side and dodged my sloppy haymakers until I toppled myself into the starboard rail and opened a gash on my forehead. Sebastian shouted sharply, as though chastising a dog, and the crew quietly split, leaving only the most crooked drunks stumbling for purchase on the wavering deck.

Let the kids play, I remember shouting at the cantankerous Quebecois, his disgusted eyes roving the ship. He moved slowly through the mess, his hands clasped behind his back, his booted feet kicking at and turning over the detritus until he was right next to me, standing beside the railing I needed for support, his slim face and deep set eyes moving up and down my slouched frame.

Why the fuck are you here, his voice slithered and shot at me in a coarse whisper. I had the urge to lay a gloved fist up and into his sharp chin but thought better of it and straightened myself instead.

To watch your snake, I slurred back to him, dimly aware that it made no sense. He shook his head and turned from me, marching back through the slop and in through the stern doors.

7 July 1984

The crew seems to avoid me now, faces turn or look down when I approach, conversations turn quiet. It’s either all in my head or Sebastians had a talk with the whole lot and told them I’m bad news, just some crusty barnacle. Even Anton seems a bit wary of me, sullen when I approach. We still get along just fine but I feel as though he’s always on the opposite ledge of this unbridgeable void and we’re just shouting pleasantries across without even looking down at what separates us. Silly that in a mere two weeks time I’ve somehow managed to ostracize myself.

Tove though, at least my wife has turned herself towards me when everyone else has looked away. She’s begun to go out of her way to seek me out throughout the day, to see how I’m getting along. Maybe she’s seen that I’ve been made to feel like the black sheep. Maybe she’s been on my side all along after all.

Such a sappy wench I am, babbling prosaically about my emotions while we sail through a landscape few will ever get to see.

We crossed a long inlet today and came upon the coast of Somerset island, it’s dull expanse of dry brown earth seemingly endless. A great mass of snow and ice still laid on parts of the land but in one long patch of green earth was one of the most striking sights. A flock of arctic terns dipping and swirling over this emerald mile. Alexandre approached me with excitement to explain that they were courting. The female will chase the male far up into the sky and then down they will come to fish together before circling each other to decide if it is good match. He took my arm excitedly and spun me around in a whirling dance while some of the crew jeered. Some 50,000 miles a year they fly. He closed his eyes and spun wistfully. My God.

Sebastian must have been in a good mood, for later in the day, as the sun touched off a shifting pink over the dark waters, the engine on the Aleksander was killed and we coasted around a wide headland and into a shallow bay. An old cabin sat all alone on the deserted coastline, rusty oil drums stacked against its peeling boards, the words Hudson’s Bay Company visible in a stark black over the doorless entry. We drifted silently in amongst the tidal marshes where the nutrient rich runoff painted the water a deep forested green and birds hopped amongst the sandy bars. A hushed gasp went up amongst the crew and I followed their outstretched arms to a wider estuary but saw only chunks of ice floating and bobbing in the water. I moved closer to the bow where Alexandre was excitedly leaning over the railing, a look of childlike glee on his face, and asked him what we were so excited about. Belugas, he whispered, look at them all. It was only when he said something that it became clear to me. There, packed tightly and winding their way up the shallow waters, was the largest pod imaginable of those stately white whales, weaving and nodding amongst each other, their slender white bodies lapping beside the protruding sand bars, squealing out their high pitched cries. It felt as though we’d stumbled upon some enchanted island, a last bastion for the animals we’ve pushed to the edges of the Earth.

8 July 1984

An angry gray lid rolled over the boat this morning and opened its maw with some strange immortal ferocity. Hail pummeled us like falling hammers and then just as quickly the ocean seemed to turn upside down and dump onto our heads, such a great wall of rain it was that I was beaten down by it, like buckets being dropped from a thousand feet on high. We huddled like a group of soggy felines below deck, licking at our pride, cursing how naively comfortable we had become.

We were told in the afternoon that we had nearly reached the site of our search but no one made a celebratory move. Tove would be gone most of the days now she told me with a subdued giddiness, out with Sebastian and Alexandre doing what it was they came here to do. Anton would be in charge of the ship and had elected me his first mate. I raised my eyebrows and the Shetlanders at the table laughed.

Tove was granted an extra eight hours of rest and we retreated to our cabin together after dinner meals. Stripping down amongst the twisted metal we held each other silently, unsure of what to make of ourselves in this strange place until she finally pulled me off the bed and positioned me behind her. I was surprised and relieved at the animal passion that had returned to us, eager in some way to make it last, to be almost cruel in my need for her. I passed out in a wild naked clutch of her slim frame only to awaken hours later to an eager moaning from Tove. I moved my hand slowly down to her warm crotch thinking I’d already find hers there but instead she shivered with some fantasy world desire and in the damp darkness drawled out the word, Sebastian.

12 July 1984

We’ve settled into a decent mooring in the wide bay that backs the Beechey Island. Alongside the ship is a narrow isthmus, some mile or two long, that appears like an apparition each day at the lowest mark of the tides. Some of the crew have taken up a fund for any man who will run the length of it without succumbing to the sea. The Shetlanders feel it haunted but a pair of Danes, reedy thin and bright faced, have taken to sprinting laps on the deck in the early mornings in preparation.

The days seem to pass unimaginably slow for me at present and I wonder how long I can keep this up before my mind atrophies to a point of insanity. It has become ever more difficult to not become lost in the silly trivialities that my mind plays out for me like some grotesque theater. Tove out there huddling with Sebastian on that island in this incessant breach of rain and wind. I imagine they take comfort in each other but I dare not ask. I confronted Tove about that dream the other night. Told her she had been thrashing and mumbling something awful but she merely looked down, busying her hands with some device, and told me she couldn’t recall any dreams. Is she trying to hide something, fore there isn’t enough room on this ship for secrets.

For now they are exhuming the bodies of those four boys. Those thin white headstones that stand like stark flags on the barren land. Some 140 years they have lain there in the permafrost, their bodies frozen in time, preserved almost perfectly. Eerie, I find it all, yet I am anxious to gaze upon these strange mummies.

15 July 1984

I am almost sick with regret. Queasy just at the opening of this god awful journal. I tell myself there is nothing I could have done but then am struck with how self serving that sounds. Noah, that poor boy. How rotten I am to only learn of his name now. He was the cleaning boy, found by Sebastian at 0500 hours this morning, his body hanging from the pipes just outside of Alexandre and Antons door. Thankfully Alexandre has come clean with the story so that I have not had to.

The mood aboard the ship today has been nearly as dark as the sky outside. The study of the mummy explorers has been suspended indefinitely and we have all taken to our own dim little corners to square our minds. Alexandre has huddled with Tove in our cabin for a great part of the afternoon, distraught to say the least. Says the boy told him he loved him and he responded by laughing and writing it off. Feels terrible now, a shaking of his thin bones that doesn’t seem to abate. Sebastian has granted him an honorable discharge but Alexandre wants to keep working, says he can’t imagine what he would do with so much idle time.

Tove and I lie in the bunk together now wordlessly, each of us stricken. I wonder when sleep will come but then feel sick again that I’ve made this about me and my suffering. Can’t imagine what poor Noah must have been thinking the past several days. My heart aches.

18 July 1984

Tove and Sebastian have returned to the island now with two of the Shetlanders to continue the research despite some bits of upheaval from the crew. Several of the Danes have threatened mutiny, though I’m unsure, as are they, where this would lead. Regardless, they have stopped working and spend their days now pitching about the deck running themselves into a huff. I understand their distress but I do not see what good might come of these agitations.

Below, Alexandre has taken full time to his quarters. A fever collapsed into pneumonia and now the lean boy has become ever more gaunt. I fear that his frame of mind does not bode well to recovery and I spend as much time as I can with him, patting at his sweltering skin and reading him stories in English that I wonder if only perturb his mind further.

What has become of this expedition. Sebastian refuses any test of his will and has held off on using the satellite phone to report Noahs death, urging instead that it’s more humane to deliver the news himself in person. Not many agree. If Alexandre was speaking the truth before and Sebastian has no heart for this voyage than I am bewildered by this latest turn.

20 July 1984

What has happened. Only a week ago we were sitting idly, casting jokes about and now one of the crew is dead and the rest is a vicious powder keg.

I was below deck whispering quietly to a worsening Alexandre when I heard the commotion above. Whipping up the stairs, I burst through the aft doors and saw a scramble of bodies along the starboard rail. Men were on the ground rolling about the wet deck while others were scrambling over the pile trying to separate the bodies. I saw Tove in the mix of it, her long blond hair toppling in a heap of the bright arctic jackets. I ran towards the lot, ready to throw a handful of the young Danes aside when a shot rang out and everyone startled. I turned to see Anton walking towards the pile, a .22 held aloft in his gloved hand. The bodies slowly untangled and patted themselves down innocently until finally the bright yellow jacket of Sebastian was pulled to a standing from the bottom of the rut and his thin face bore a scowl of disgust that would have given Lucifer pause. He produced slowly from his jacket then the one satellite phone we had left, its plastic entrails hanging loosely from a cracked face.

I did not stay for the haranguing but could hear and feel the reverberations from his speech below deck where I was tending to the gashes across Toves cheek and arm. Anton later related that some of the boys had broken into tears, so coarse was the screed. Sebastian made a visit to Alexandres cabin where we were not long after and cradled the resting Frenchman in his arms like a baby bird while he informed me that my duties, as well as my pay, would be doubled for the entirety of the voyage. I felt as though it were the first time he had not spoken down to me and the pride I thusly gained was discombobulating. They had finished their work on the corpses this afternoon he went on, and would be moving West Southwest towards the proposed sight of their search for the rest of the missing explorers. Fascinating work, he said in a hush, addressing the sleeping face of Alexandre, cradling it ever closer to his own, gash marks on the bones of the explorers that indicate cannibalism. Tove nodded but added nothing, her expression barren. This landscape, so destitute. How easily it could incite the most barbarous of instincts. 

21 July 1984

Tove was not herself through the night and into the morning but I said nothing, eager as I was to appear as though I was not worried, as though this voyage and our marriage could not be so easily cast off the rails. Finally, on the deck, as I was helping Anton and the remaining bare bones crew hoist the moorings, she pulled me aside and begged a word with me as soon as was possible. An hour later, as the thunderous engine roared to life once more and the rooms below deck again took on their cacophonous clamor I found her in our bunk, eyes puffy, staring blankly at the weeping walls.

He’s up to something. It was the first thing she said. I nodded in agreement and sat down on the warm cot beside her. Yesterday when we were on the ice he pulled me aside and showed me the sat phone in his jacket, told me that he would call his friend and we would be gone, whisked away to the new estate he’s built himself along Hudson Bay. I just shook my head and kept working. Treated it like a joke. But then a minute later he comes back and tells me not to worry about them. That they won’t be a problem. 

I shifted uneasily on the cot and looked around the tiny room. Was it bugged. I didn’t even know what to look for.

He’s not himself. I don’t know, Tove continued.

What did you do after he said that?

I gave him this look like he was crazy but he just gave this wane smile and went back to work. Was talking again about the mummies a second later as if nothing had been said.

We have to tell Anton.

No, no, you think Sebastian could carry out some plot all on his own. No, we cannot talk to Anton.

Okay then we get the crew and we tell them. They’ve already lost their faith in him.

And what? Lock the crazy captain in some room. It wouldn’t work because we don’t know whose on his payroll. We have to just keep going. Remember when you asked me about my dream the other night. He had a gun to your head. You confronted him and he put a gun to your head. We have to just keep going. 

24 July 1984

We’ve motored for three straight days now towards the ice. The rain has stopped but the clouds have failed to part and the sea has become an ever increasing swath of white floes. I see seals still out there amongst the thickening pack, their gray bodies sliding through the rough dark water, but little more. This stretch of sea feels vast and ominous, the bergs here dwarfing us. These glinting towers of the most iridescent blue, moaning past us like wayward goliaths, seemingly lit from within, their mass below the surface appearing as some eerie green glow.

I’ve become almost numb to whats ahead of us. Sebastian still briefs the ship on the search we will conduct for the lost Northwest Passage explorers but I feel as though not even his heart is in it. Everyone merely tucks their faces away from the sharpening chill and stays silent. It feels to me like some floating graveyard.

26 July 1984

The search began today. A large grids been mapped out and we will slowly cover each parcel with the advanced sonar and underwater imaging we have on board hoping to find the two boats from the British expedition that was lost 130 years ago. Despite the fact that not a single Brit is aboard, we were granted Her Majesties blessing along with not a slim pinch of Her Majesties pounds. I pray that we find the downed ships sooner than later.

Sebastian informed the crew that we have at max fifty days to scan these waters, at which time we will turn around and motor back to Iqaluit with or without a discovery. His announcement drew a smattering of dissent and no fewer than a handful of boos. Tove spends most of her days now perched over the camera or sonar equipment staring at an infinite expanse of nothingness. I do not envy her. I for one have become quite the hand at Hearts, Spades, and Poker and have found my purse slowly growing. Anton no longer joins us at the table and has taken to work to busy himself. The anxious fears I felt some days ago have for the most part receded and I see Sebastians warning to Tove now as little more than boisterous threats. Hopefully this feeling holds.

Oh, and Alexandre. The wiry Frenchman has finally begun to come around and has joined the crew in the mess hall for some meals now, his frail appearance drawing a round of applause. He stays mostly quiet but I try to encourage him with trivialities nonetheless.

30 July 1984

Again I have awoken to an upheaval. A coursing of footfalls on the deck and a smattering of shouts. In the pursuant scuffle a Dane was lobbed into the frigid waters below and huddles now like a human popsicle in the engine room. Sebastian, it turns out, has shuttled poor Noahs body out to sea and the Danes, having gone to tend to it and finding nothing, have rightfully become loosened. He claims that the corpse was rotting in the freezer hold and that it is customary to bury any deceased members while at sea. This has rankled an outsized majority of the crew and a mere temporary peace holds now. I have attempted to broker a deal but both sides scoff at my bargaining. The crew wants to turn towards Iqaluit at once but Sebastian and his cohort insist on completing their search and refuse to kowtow to even the slightest of demands. What is left unsaid is that Sebastian and his cohort possess all of the weapons on board. Tove and I fear something awful brewing. We sleep now but each with one eye open.

2 August 1984

The mood on board is toxic. Insults and profanities ring throughout the ship unannounced while the research crew does their work timidly behind locked doors. I feel for the most part safe in my middle ground but am unsure what bold foolhardiness the young Danes are cooking up. They run about the ship like jackals inciting each other into some kind of frothy hysterics and then suddenly fall quiet.

We are sitting on a powder keg in the middle of a wasteland of water and ice with no hope for salvation.

4 August 1984

I pulled Sebastian aside this morning and tried to reason with the stubborn Quebecois. He listened wordlessly, a slight grin spreading across his face, and then merely brushed me aside saying, they are just little boys. Little boys play games. He seemed not to understand the extent of their fervor, how it continues to build in place of anything else to do. They are not little boys, I tried to tell him, blocking his path in the dim hallway, which of them is not larger and stronger than you?

He shook his head at this, as if I had gone too far, and glancing behind him quickly, pulled from the pocket of his large puffy jacket a handgun. At this he smiled and laughed fore my face must have given away something inside of me. My disbelief. My timidity. My rage. My pity. I stepped aside without a word and let the foolish man past, my mind and body numb from some sort of shock.

All of this for what, some silly pride? I said it quietly but he must have heard because he laughed so obnoxiously loud that its baritone din rang off the pipes. Without turning he shouted a jovial response, his words still choked with laughter.

You would never understand the role of the alpha.

7 August 1984

Tove was now escorted by Anton and a feeble Alexandre to and from the bridge each morning. Their secret knock on our cabin door signaling that it was safe to unlock the hatch, a protocol that filled each of us with some unconscionable dread. Sebastian had said that a little birdie told him the Danes had some childish plot to exploit the sole woman on board as leverage, but neither of us believed it. Those boys knew we were just as much of pawns as they were.

My safety could not be guaranteed outside of my cabin, another precaution echoed by Sebastian that I treated as foolish, some divisive tactic that I would not buy into. Instead, I went to the tiny berths behind the mess hall that the Danes and Shetlanders shared and tried to calm their minds.

Time had cooled their frenetic energies and they did little more than cast about their bunks now in some spiritless antipathy merely wishing to be home. A few still were emboldened by the indignities of Sebastian and his men but casted it forward instead, threatening violence if they’re not to be paid or if the search stretches beyond the promised fifty days. I took solace in their brotherhood and promised that I would look out for them, a promise they returned.

The deck is all but empty now and I drag a chair up from below and perch in the rounded bow at the head of the ship, my feet on the flaking white rails, staring out at the mass of sea and sky that folds into one shocking expanse of metallic blue. On some days the thin blocks of sea ice fit together like a puzzle and the ship chugs along slowly, the hull groaning as it pushes and fractures its way through the seemingly endless expanse. Then other days the winds turns and the floes separate so that the Aleksander zigs and zags briskly across the dark surface. The sun is finally dropping now too so that it is possible around midnight to come aboard to find the ice drenched in a deep purple, the entire sky backlit with some ethereal glow. It’s only then that I understand why I’ve come along, why, despite everything else that has happened, I still find this voyage somehow redemptive.

9 August 1984

I lay in my cot this morning shaken with a fever, a heedless night sweat forcing Tove to lay atop a pile of arctic downs on the floor. What little sleep I did come upon in between bouts was livid with dreams, a twisting world of conversations and encounters that seemed to stack upon each other in haphazard ways. Tove has asked me to describe them but I can’t find the words other than to say that none of it fit together, like a life lived out of order. Were you here, she asked. Only once. For a glinting second I was out in the water, floating in that numb world unconscious of any boat or why I would have been there. I was treading water, turning slowly around, awestruck by the bright blaze of the sun and how it cascaded through the ice floes gliding past. I thought of shouting, I can remember that, of somehow feeling as though I wasn’t alone. But I didn’t and finally when I turned back to a spot I was sure I’d already glanced over there it was in front of me, no more than fifteen feet away, his long snout sniffing the cold water. I felt the brunt of the cold then, that water like an ice chest suddenly crushing my meager frame. I knew movement would alert the giant bear but I could do nothing but splash recklessly, my limbs a haphazard flurry. Lowering his enormous head his eyes locked on mine for just the briefest connection before his lean body slid into the water. I was dead, sure of it, my body going catatonic with fear and chill, gripped almost as if in a vice by the inevitable clench of that massive jaw. Any instant it would be around me, I knew, rending limbs from torso, turning the inky black a putrid crimson. Please just let the water take me down. I let my body sink, the crews endless chatter about how hypothermia induces some pleasurable bliss invading my dream as I dropped, my eyes gripped shut. I could feel a bottom, sense it somehow, that ship that we’d been looking for down there on the floor of the giant bay. I was nearly to it, my legs kicking at a long mast when suddenly the jaws found my shoulder and I barreled from the dream in a dripping sweat, tugging for air, the cold hands of Alexandre retreating from my bare skin.

12 August 1984

My body rattles like the cage of some giant beast. Lucidity wanes. One minute I am trudging through the Sahara, a burning sand clinging to my wet skin, the next, fifty meters below the arctic, naked, swaddled in some icy tomb. Not turning back. Words from the captain. Tove cries. Alexandre cries too. Danes in the doorway staring at a pale ghost. Set my body on fire or dip it in the sea.

15 August 1984

Three days like haunted seconds. Tove touches my skin, cries. My hand shakes.

A dictation, verbatim I promise him. This is Tove.

What do I really look like.

Not good.

There’s more. I know it Tove. Write it if you can’t say it.

You look like your skin has frozen, like its been plastered over, like a man people assume has already passed to the other side. They can’t look at you for more than a second and they can’t seem to find their appetites even after just that.

Good, he moans, croaks a laugh, sees my hand moving spasmodically. Finds some strange bliss in seeing thoughts put to page. Cannot leave anything undocumented. I’ll keep writing. Not sure what to write. Not sure how he does it. When I first met him I found it peculiar, the constant scribbling, thought of it like someone living his life once removed. An observer of his own story. How sad and detached. But now he smiles when he sees my hands erratic flurry. I’ll tell him whats happened now. Seems more cognizant than anytime in the last week.

Can’t. A pinch of worry that I hadn’t expected. I don’t know where to begin. Feeling like a girl who’s prayed and sacrificed all night for the sun to return only to feel clumsy as it breaks so assuredly over the eastern horizon. He’ll be alright. It’s always darkest before the light.

Ask him if I might burn the page. Why? Worked myself into a corner. Only way out is the truth.

He sighs after I’ve laid it out. Not for me, he says, both dejected and proud. He thinks what. That I wouldn’t have done anything to save him. That I’d cast him aside for some hotheaded, shrill ego’ed Quebecois. He motions with his hand, a scribbling gesture about the air, eyes closed. Write it, he says, then hide it.

We meticulously tallied out a weeks worth of food and threw the rest overboard in the night. This will get us home and nothing else. A note was written and left on the captains door. Check the pantry..it’s time to go home.

16 August 1984

I woke today to an unsettling darkness, the room still, no other breathing besides my own, a shrill bleating coming from somewhere far off on the ship. I thought, naively now, that that would be the end of it, that an ecstatic clamor would roll throughout the ship on our voyage home but now I sense that something has turned. The footfalls overhead are absent along with the voices down the halls. Eerily calm as I toggle the light in the dark, nothing, the ships motor and electrical systems powered down, the moaning of ice against metal hull missing. My thought is that they’ve left me aboard a floating burial ground or that maybe I’m still dreaming. I reach teeth to shoulder and bite at the cold bony flesh but nothing changes.

My legs are weak as I move through the big steel door and down the pitch black hallway, muscle memory carrying me over the pipes and raised frames that jut across the floor. I gain the stairs with careful effort and push open the door to the deck. I’m confronted by a cold night, the moon and stars filling the sky alongside a sun that has only disappeared backstage momentarily, the sky still effuse with its remnant glow. The squeal of whatever alarm or sensor is louder here, coming from somewhere above the bridge, thankfully drowning out the moan of the door as I slowly drag it closed again.

I sit down at the top of the stairs and try to gather whatever strength I can but with each breath I seem to be sinking, my body folding over on itself. I want to vomit. Naturally my body follows that thought and I wrench between my legs, the thin string of bile dripping through the grated slats like some poisonous venom. I wipe my mouth on the blanket slung over my shoulders just as a beam of light blinds my sight. I’ve nothing. I merely duck my head between my legs and watch as the beam silently follows the toxins dripping from the stairs.

Aw my poor writer. Something is whipped at my prone form but I can’t see it until it hits me and rolls down the stairs, resting in the illuminated vomit. Toves dark orange bag. How could I have boarded this ship with a deranged man.

She’s gone. Seems you’ve missed the boat. I don’t move or respond. What is there to do. My body feels so heavy that I fear if I stand I’ll merely topple down the stairs. Instead I pull the blanket further over my body so that I’m just a dark shell. The light disappears and I feel on the verge of sleep, the edge of some barren void. I have no will to fight or fret. I know Tove is safe somewhere. He couldn’t have hurt them all. I’m only unsure what he might do to me.

The light returning, silence, a sudden rush in the air and then a spasm of wet cold. My body contorts as the frigid water runs off my back and drips down the stairs. The blanket a frozen sponge now. I cast it off with a hatred I had forgotten existed, a cackling from the bottom of the stairs.

Another bucket Mr. Pulitzer prize? I shake my head as the thick down jacket on my back clings to me in a frozen damp, the rattling chill returning.

Sick fuck.

Oh, my hero. Do you need back rubbed?

Fuck you.

Oh, another bucket you say? I watch the light turn and retreat down the hall, Sebastian whistling as he goes. There’s nowhere for me to run to, no place to hide from this psycho. I could try to make it to my room but to what, to wait in there while I run out of water and food. I raise my head to look for some kind of weapon but all I see are stars swimming across my vision. I can’t remember the last time I ate.

Monsieur Pulitzer, the words echo down the hall as the light bounces steadily closer. Look up this time so that I might clean that vomit from your ghastly face. There is quiet murmuring at the bottom of the stairs, Sebastian confiding with someone. I scream out a plea, my voice choked and tattered as I listen to the water sloshing back and forth, but no other voice responds. I pull my knees up to my chest and bury my head against my thighs. My teeth are quivering so I bite into the flesh of my emaciated thigh to stop the clatter, to halt that sound that says my body can’t take much more. Sebastian lets out a low laugh and I brace for the icy water but instead theres a roaring crack and then a heavy thud. I drop my knees and peer down the stairs to see the light flooding a body lying diagonally across the hall, the puddle around the yellow hood slowly diluting a thick red. The light suddenly shoots back up to me, remembering that I’m there and I can’t help but hide behind my legs again, my bleating cries muffled by the wet cocoon I’m going to die within.

No, no, you’re fine. Please. It’s the voice of Alexandre, his steps heavy and fast on the stairs, his hand on my shoulder, kneading the thin bone. It’s okay. You’re okay. Everyone’s okay.

24 August 1984

Pointed home.

It took Alexandre and Anton less than an hour to find the life raft that Tove and the crew were floating on, the bright yellow dinghy pushed to a corner of the bay by the waves of a building storm. They said they weren’t scared, that they knew everything would work out, but by the way some of the young Danes dropped to their knees when they were back on deck I knew otherwise.

I for one had no time to be scared. In some feverish pitch I had missed the entire squabble, the shouting match and the drawn guns, the entire crew corralled onto an exposed raft with zero food and only a gallon of water. Sebastian had told them to start paddling if they wanted to be home so badly and then tossed them a handful of dining trays. The current merely pulled them away as they watched the HDMS Aleksander motor off and then power down.

What was Sebastians end goal? No one was sure. Alexandre confessed that Sebastian had told him he was in trouble back in Canada, that he had been dodging taxes for years and a sexual harassment suit was likely to soon cost him his university gig as well. He wasn’t trying to go back, had even emptied his bank accounts and stashed his savings overseas. Maybe he never even planned on returning the boat, was going to merely drag us all through the fabled Northwest Passage and on into the cold expanse of Siberia where we’d all come to live as civilians of the Soviet Republic.

Alexandre sits now in the big blue governmental office above town. Upon our arrival in Inqaluit he confessed to the murder in front of a confused room of Esquimaux and was given an empty governmental office to sleep and relax in while a sentencing came back from Ottawa. With an entire crew lauding him as hero we expect he will be freed of any charges shortly and onward to France where he intends on staying for some time. When I brought him lunch the other day he confessed that, I’ve realized the cold is not so much for me.

Anton, that burly Russian who I first imagined to be my only friend. Gone. A note left on the door of our old room in the Inqaluit high school that first morning back.

I’m sorry. Very much. One thousand times. I am no good person and you will never see me again. I am not explorer, not adventurer, not seaman, only thick headed fool. Sebastian pays me to watch you. Bonus to make your death accident, but I never would. No gulag for me, my mind gulag. Ya lyublyu tebya. That is I love you. Be safe.

With a couple of the Danes we searched for him but he was nowhere. Inqaluit is a tiny place yet no one had any idea where the big Russian had gone. Another boat or a sledge out across the ice pack. It only took a handful of hours for the man to disappear.

As for Tove and I, in some strange way we’ve never been happier. I’ve heard it before, that traumatic events actually bring people closer, weave the bonds ever tighter, and can only attest to that now. Slowly we’ve dismantled the gear and catalogued all of the data, Tove ecstatic that I’ve filled in happily where Sebastian and Alexandre cannot. We won’t leave the island until Alexandre has received his sentencing so there is no rush, each day a slow crawl from our sleeping bags and a long gaze out over the icy bay towards the soaring granite peaks beyond.

Teotihuacan – Mexico

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We stood atop the Pyramid of the Moon at the far end of the 2.5 kilometer long Avenue of the Dead and gazed down the long wide boulevard at the hundreds of people and the deep gray storm clouds roiling over their heads.

“I mean, people would be moving a little quicker if they thought it was gonna rain right?”
“I don’t know. This is Mexico. I don’t know if people are ever in a hurry.”

We watched families mill about the ruins, posing on the high altars and slowly tromping up the steps of the smaller pyramids as the feathery blue clouds transformed into a thick steel.

“Well we should probably move.”

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One at a time we ambled down the steep steps of the pyramid, stopping to watch grandparents ascend on all fours as little kids bounded down, seemingly unaware that one misstep meant a flight to the bottom. We crossed the big courtyard and went to the Northern exit, 2.5 kilometer from where we had come in to ask about a bus back to the city.

“Nope, gotta go back to the other end to catch the bus to Mexico City.”

We laughed and turned around to a sky looming more ominously overhead. We had already trekked the length of the site for an entire day, climbing over crumbling ruins, up and down countless pyramids, and through the walls of 2000 year old homes. Now we scurried along the wide central boulevard as tired vendors held up jade masks and jaguar whistles. People were still queueing for the towering Pyramid of the Sun as we tramped by the massive base shooting towards the darkened heavens.

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“I think we’re good.”

The most ominous of the clouds seemed to be looming behind us and we only had to pass the expansive citadel before we were back at the parking lot in line for a bus. The wind blew through the dry shrubs and thickets of prickly pears that burst in flowery red blooms from their mittened cactusy hands as we made our way out of the park turning to look back down the slowly ascending stretch of the giant Aztec city.

A bus rolled into the lot and we clambered aboard, taking the few open seats that were spread about next to already slumbering locals. We started off as a movie dubbed in horrible Spanish roared back to life from tinny speakers. I pulled back the curtains to look out over the sprawl encroaching the ancient city as a light rain began to cover the dirty window.

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San Blas – Mexico

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I leaned back against the backpack I wore like a turtle shell and rested my head on the dirty wall of the truck bed, staring up at the canopy of trees that streamed past in a green blur overhead.

“Over there is a mango tree…and those, those are banana trees.”

I could barely hear her over the whipping wind as we flew around broad sweeping turns under a furiously bright sky.  Teresa was being the good samaritan and nodding along as the old woman described every bit of passing flora and fauna.

“And that, hmmm, thats another mango tree.”

She was barely pushing five feet tall and dressed in layers of bright colorful throws and dresses that caught the wind and trailed behind her long dark hair in the breeze.

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Ten minutes earlier we had gotten out of a different pickup as we hitched our way up the coast and saw her standing on a dusty street corner playing a version of that childs game where you flick a ball on a string into a cup.

“Your going to want to wait here, theres nowhere to stop up ahead.” She called out to us as we stood in the middle of the deserted road contemplating how we would hitch our next ride. She flicked the wooden ball and smiled at us, the huge plastic red flower pinned to her purple dress glared as brightly as her blush smothered red cheeks. “Im going to Platanitos. I work there dancing on the beach. My names Maria”

She ignored the wooden toy in her hand for a minute and demonstrated a little cumbia two step before resuming her spot on the corner under a glaring sun.  The waiting game looked hopeless as the empty streets yawned and kicked up dust, soulless during the hottest part of the day.  I leaned back against the peeling paint of a quiet two shelf store and stared down the silent streets as the old woman continued her game.

Slowly a huge dusty pickup bobbled down the dirt road and came to a slow stop in front of us.  An old leathery cowboy leaned across the baby toting woman in the passenger seat and blankly called out to Maria. “Where you going?”

“Platanitos.”

He nodded and slowly resumed his spot behind the enormous wheel.  Maria threw her canvas bag over the wall of the truck bed that towered above her head and began crawling up the step in the back.  We stood there dazed, unsure of our luck until Teresa leaned towards the open window. “We want to go to San Blas.” The woman and her little child in the passenger seat looked at us blankly as the cowboy stared straight ahead and nodded his head. “We can take you to the entrance of town.”

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The three of us lounged in the dusty truck bed as we spun down the road past fields of abundant green.

“There guayaba.” Her small tanned hand pointed off the side of the road behind my head at a tree that disappeared into the distance. “Those are all papaya.” I smiled as she continued explaining something in Spanish that got garbled by the wind.  “How long are you going to San Blas for?”

“Just for the weekend.”

“Well when you come back through town you come to my house for a meal. I can show you all of the food.”

“I dont think were going to have time.”

“Okay then next time.”

“Gracias Maria.”

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Tequila – Mexico

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“So, which came first, the name of the town or the name of the drink?” I asked my new friend Juan Luis in Spanish as I sat shotgun in his impeccably clean Jeep. The dusty roads and muddy tracks that led into the rolling blue fields of agave were the antithesis of his brand new Cherokee and I wondered if he also owned a car wash.
“I don’t understand. The town has always been called Tequila and the drink shares its name because many of the distilleries began here.” He fiddled with the temperature controls and blasted more AC, turning and nodding to me approvingly. I had told him I was living in Colorado before traveling and he was either trying to make me feel more at home or show me that his car could also double as an icebox in a pinch. When he looked away I closed my vent.
“Well, sometimes governments will change the names of places to try to boost tourism.” I couldn’t think of any examples and now I was just beginning to feel stupid for asking the question.
“No, siempre Tequila.”

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I had arrived in the little town as the sun was beginning its descent over the hard scrabbled peaks and the midday heat was still hiding its cowboy residents. I strolled down the main drag, deserted except for a few girls in trinkety storefronts who called out to me in the blazing sun.
“You wanna try?” She was pointing to a lineup of tall clear bottles perched on the upturned end of an old barrel.
“Sureeee.”
“We have these with flavor added or you can try just Tequila. Or you can try them all.” She picked up a shot glass from a counter behind the register and led me to a row of twenty or so bottles of varying stages of emptiness. Either this towns really hurting for business or she’s bored or maybe the tequila really does flow like water. I tipped back a shot of the bottle she recommended and thanked her as she expressionlessly resumed her spot under the shady canopy.
Back on the street the sun resumed treating my head like a punching bag and I strolled halfheartedly until I saw the hostel sign I was looking for.
“Pretty quiet.”
“Yeah you are the only guest aside from six construction guys who are living here temporarily.”
“How far is it to walk out to the agave fields like those ones?” I pointed to the impressive pictures of big blue agaves amidst burning red sunsets that had been printed on canvas hanging on the yellow wall behind the desk.
“I’m going there right now, I’ll take you.” The young Mexican guy leaning against the stairs called over to me.
“How much?”
“No. Free my friend. We just have to go to the store and buy a bottle of tequila.” I was wary of anything free especially when it was coming from the mouth of a slick looking young guy who looked like he always had business on his mind. “My names Juan Luis.”

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We bounced up into the hills past farmers on horseback, their dark faces peering out from underneath cowboy hats pulled low while ripples of heavy clouds began to move over the reddening sky.
“Perfect day to take pictures, especially for this client because they want to have a darker image for their ads. Usually everyday is just sun, all day sun, everyday.”
“Ohhh they’re your client?” I turned the fancy bottle of clear tequila over in my hands.
“Yeah. I am a photographer. All of the tequila companies contract me if they want pictures with the agave plants or the fields or town. This one they are a bunch of guys in LA starting a new tequila company. Popular these days but all the tequila is made in the same distilleries anyways. See this number?” He reached across and pointed to a number near the bottom of the label. “That tells you what distillery made the tequila. Cuervo and Sauza make tequila for most of these small American companies that try to be fancy and sell for crazy prices. They tell me this bottle is eighty dollars in the states.” He tossed the bottle in his hands and smirked.
We pulled to the side of a muddy track and parked the Jeep in front of a huge gate. Skirting the entrance I followed Juan Luis over a shorter fence of piled stones and dropped down into the fields of blue agave.
“This is no good. Usually the fields are trimmed and it’s only the agave.”
We looked out over the field of spiky blue plants that was choked with weeds and tall grasses down every row.
“Oh well.” Juan Luis shrugged and I followed him along a gravel trail until we came to a sprawling overlook with rolling hills in every direction. As he fiddled with his tripod and little tequila display I wandered into the blue hills, the fields clotted with blowing pink grasses and the pointy chutes of plants that would one day be incinerated and fermented into the potent liquid.
On the way back down into town Juan Luis told me his life story. He had gone to film school in Guadalajara and then traveled and lived in Spain and Andorra for several years after school. Eventually he returned home to the sleepy town of tequila and started his own media company. “I do photos for companies, weddings, portraits, commercials, whatever. I also have made two movies and I’m working on a feature length one. Its cheesy horror stuff with a Mexican flavor, I love Hitchcock. I also own and manage the hostel and I own my own real estate business.” He was also married and had a young son. I asked him how old he was. “Just turned 28.”

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We slid back into the cobblestone streets of Tequila under the cover of a rare cloudy night sky that hung like wet cement over our heads. The taco stands were starting to be wheeled out to the central plaza where a small stone church stood watch over the hushed town.
“Have you been to la Capilla yet?”
“No, what’s that?”
“Its a bar in town. People come from all over the world just to go to this bar. Some website ranked it in the top twenty for best bars in the world.” We pulled over at a little corner and parked. “There it is.” He pointed to a pair of wooden blue doors in an otherwise nondescript white wall where a few people were milling about. There were no signs or names outside, just an ad for a random tequila company spray painted across the grimy white stone. We walked in and sat down at the only table, a cheap wooden affair covered with a smattering of newspapers and wet napkins ringed from drinks already downed. Juan Luis ordered two drinks as I looked around the room. The walls were lined with faded pictures of anonymous men and dull landscapes wrapped in shabby wood frames that teetered at various angles. Exposed bulbs dangled from overhead and gave the tiny room a harsh blue glow. Above the door for the bathroom, a small shelf was overflowing with medals and enormous soccer trophies perched on the edge of collapse. Juan Luis walked back over to the table.
“You have to meet Don Javier. He is the reason this bar is what it is.”
I followed him across the room to where an old man was perched with a smile atop an unraveling wicker chair looking like a man waiting to tell my fortune. I extended my hand and he wrapped it up loosely.
“Mucho gusto.”
He responded in a rush of whispered words that I could barely hear and even less understand. I smiled and nodded and he laughed. Probably the millionth gringo who has stood in front of him and beamed in non-coherence. Juan Luis picked up the conversation with Don Javier as I studied the newspaper articles over his head. Stories in various languages with the Don in exactly the same chair he was in now wearing the same white button down. A life filled with the endless repetition of drinks and stories. After a minute we ambled back over to the table with our Batangas, the drink that Don Javier created himself in the 50’s, a stern heaping of tequila with coke and a big slice of lime and salt. A recipe simple enough, but made magical by the knife that Don Javier has used to slice limes and stir Batangas for years.
“You know, he has been working at this bar everyday since he was fourteen years old. Last week they just had a huge 90th birthday party for him. Can you imagine.”
Juan Luis shook his head and kicked back his Batanga.
“You hungry yet? I’m going to get you the best tacos and tostadas in town. But first you probably want a shot of the best tequila we have, right? When in Tequila.”

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Chichen Itza – Mexico

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I was warned about showing up late, “even by ten its gonna start looking like Disney World”, so I dragged my lazy bones out of bed at seven to catch the first bus to the site. Inevitably, the parking lot was already piled with tour buses by the time I got there, day trippers who had walked zombie like from cruise ship to bus at four in the morning for the three hour trip from Cancun to the site were now adjusting their monogrammed sun visors and nifty fanny packs as they followed their umbrella toting guides like lemmings around the site. I pulled up my shorts and tucked in my shirt as I joined one of the half dead processions ambling out from under the shade. As we walked, hundreds of vendors were wheeling carts seemingly out of the jungle, appearing through thick green walls with identical stacks of carved obsidian jaguars and trinkety painted skulls. If this many people could make a living from souvenir sales than the Disney World prediction couldn’t be far off. We strolled out into the huge field and got a first glimpse of the towering El Castillo temple that sat front and center in the massive complex. It wasn’t even nine yet and already sweat was pooling on my chest and carrying the sunglasses from my dripping bridge. All of a sudden our group stopped and the immaculately fluent Mexican guide turned and looked at me, I figured I was outed and I’d have to take the walk of shame away from my new sun block smattering family.

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Instead, he leaned across and placed his hand on my shoulder, “Imagine your a Mayan farmer and you’ve been traveling for days from your tiny plot deep in the jungle to arrive in Chichen Itza on the spring equinox.” This speech felt awfully familiar. “Now you’ve never seen an opening in the jungle this big in your life with so many people crowded in together. A quiet life in the jungle is all you know but now there are thousands of people all quietly chanting. Kukulkan, Kukulkan, Kukulkan. The sun is about to set and suddenly a sharp burst of light hits the side of the temple. The light hits the huge steps just right so that the shadow creates the serpents body on the side of the staircase. This marvelous event can only happen two times a year on the equinoxes. Now everyone is chanting louder, Kukulkan, Kukulkan, and looking towards the top of the pyramid. The sky is glowing red with the fiery sunset and just then the King emerges wearing a massive headdress of Quetzal feathers. He raises his hands over his head like this and delivers a massive clap.”

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The guide raises his hands in the air like a Mayan King and motions for us to follow. Clap, clap, clap. The group of thirty or so claps in unison and the sound that reverberates off of the staircase in front so us is like nothing I’ve ever heard before. It sounds like a muffled bark or some squaking animal. “Now thousands of people are clapping louder and louder and the King is raising his head to the heavens. The sound of the clapping is identical to the call of the quetzal bird, the God of the sky world, and we have the illuminated serpent who is the God of the underworld. And finally there is the God of this world, the King, who steps forward and brings all three worlds together with a bloodletting from the top of the temple.”
The guide stops talking and stares up at the temple, imagining the otherworldly scene or most likely just trying to get a break from the relentless heat. Eventually the group meanders away and I’m left in front of the temple stairs, clapping to myself in awe and listening to the Quetzal call back to me.

Check out the birdy sound.

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Valladolid – Mexico

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I sat on the top bunk and watched the huge blades twist over my head, their gentle whooshing punctuated by claps of thunder from the darkness beyond the little white walled room. I was tired of reading and didn’t want to walk around in the rain so I let myself drift off in the empty space. When I came to everything was still and the steady dripping from the eaves ushered in a crisp night. I awkwardly climbed down from the ladderless height using a wobbly dresser cluttered with another guests things then crossed the room and peered into the little niches where the twelve beds were arranged. In a corner I must not have noticed before a little guitar was hung from the wall, its strings rusty and short a high E but when I brought it down it still sung out in perfect tune. I took it over to one of the lower bunks and with my eyes closed lazily strummed a few tunes, passing time in the quiet night. I got absorbed in the steady rhythms as the rust clung to my sweaty fingers and the sounds reverberated in the little wooden body held to my chest. I slowed the picking down and was startled by a little clapping from the doorway.
“Nice kid, bring that outside. We’re singing some songs and having some drinks.”
His paunch tugged at his loose pastel shirt and his gray hair hung over a dark face hardened by years of sun. He disappeared out into the garden and I followed as he weaved through the dense palms and hammocked paths. I sat down at a thick wooden table across from him and a dreadlocked girl who was strumming and singing quietly in her German accented English.
“I can’t sing in English it’s too embarrassing.”
“What are you talking about, you sound beautiful. But sing in German if you like.” He accepted the guitar being passed back to him with one hand while pouring a tall glass of rum with the other. “Alright kid play us something.”

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I fiddled around with some chords while they took sips from their sweaty drinks.
“There you go keep doing that. If you ain’t gonna sing I ain’t afraid to.”
He beat a steady rhythm with the palm of his hand as he crooned into the clear night sky.
She walked up out the room, and beat on down the road. The car came to a stop and out he hopped, unlucky girl cause her gun wuddnt load.
He howled in his raspy voice and a few more backpackers appeared out of the jungly yard to take a seat at the table. He sounded like a mix between Jonny Cash and a chain smoking convict with a head full of smiles. When the song was over the German girl looked over at him astonished.
“That was amazing but that was some dark shit Walker. How does that get in your head?”
He leaned back in his chair and laughed. The bottle of rum on the table was draining fast and his cheeks were flushing under the strain of hard liquor on a Mexican summer night.
“I taught in a penitentiary for years and I had some hard guys come through my classes. Lot of stuff gets in your head when you hear guys telling gruesome stories without a hint of remorse in their voice. Had one guy killed an entire family when he broke into a house figuring no one was home. Talked about it like he was discussing the weather. Finally after a year got up the courage to ask him if he regretted what he did, if he felt sorry for takin so many lives. He looked me dead in the eyes and said not a day in his life has he felt bad about it. There’s some sick puppies out there, guys that aint human. Had to quit that job, wears on ya like nothing else. Now I write crime novels six months of the year and travel the world playing songs the other six months. Still got those guys in my head though and it comes out in song.”
“Wow, okay. Walker that’s insane.” The German girl was staring across the table slack-jawed.
“Sure is. You ready for another one, your gonna sing this time and I’m gonna back you up. Belt it out girl.”

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His names Walker Newton. Check out his books.

Tulum – Mexico

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“I’m telling you, you should go early, like when it’s still dark out kind of early. Then you get the sunrise and the place all to yourself.” The Irish girl was emphasizing the point with flailing arms as she stuffed the last bite of taco in her mouth, her pale skin an uncomfortable looking palette of reds under the naked bulb of the taco cart.
“What time does it open?”

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I had planned on taking it easy, getting up when I got up and leisurely making my way to the Mayan ruins with their powder blue beachfront views, not drowsily sneaking around world heritage sites in the dark. But supposedly a full parking lot of tour buses with their fancy earpieces, synchronized tshirts, and sweaty dumb faces would most likely be accompanying the site by then.

“That’s the best part, it’s still closed so its free too, you just gotta hop a few old stone walls and your in.” She was looking at us with an exaggerated smile like she couldn’t wait to hear our story about running from the Mexican police through crumbly ruins then swan diving from jagged cliffs into the clear blue seas on our escape.
“When did you go?”
“Oh I haven’t gone yet love.”

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Placencia – Belize

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I woke up with a start and stared out the slats of the wooden window next to my bed. The fierce light from an overhead sun was trying to fight its way thru the chipping paint on the old yellow boards and I couldn’t place why the morning felt so strange. The fan next to my bed was rotating painfully, like an old man trying to boogie, and just barely keeping the heat from swallowing the room whole. The other bed was empty, the sheets still a tangle from the Dutch guy I had shared a room with. His five am escape to catch the once daily bus out of town had been silent and now I was coming to at eleven am in a quiet room. Too quiet. It took me a few minutes to place it but then I realized I hadn’t slept in a room by myself in over three months. I was so used to people rustling through bags, talking, and slamming doors all night long that the tranquility I woke up to tripped some switch in my brain and told me to be on the lookout, something is not as it should be.

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I took a shower in my own private bathroom and got ready in front of my own mirror and sang loudly to my tinny iPhone speakers in my own kitchen then I went and laid in the hammock stretched across my own private little patio. A group from the boat that I had just spent the last few days on walked by and invited me out to lunch. I held up the box of barbecued chicken from my hammocked lap in a silent nodded response. Two hours later they walked back in the other direction and just laughed. The little guesthouse was mostly empty and as I swung I listened to the waves lapping the beach and drifted off. Minutes or hours later, can’t be sure since the keeping of time by any means other than the suns position is outlawed in Belize, I was awakened by a gentle shouting. The girl from the little office was hanging her body out the door and calling over to my porch as Bob Marleys gentle warbling floated out from behind her. In my headphoned and dreamy state I thought she was telling me to do less and I thought, No, not possible. I pulled the little buds from my ears and leaned out of the cloth cocoon.
“If you wanna stay another night can you pay now. I’m closing da office.”
I had been planning on maneuvering my way out of the little beach town that night and moving further up the coast but this kind of calm was tough to find.
“Alright let me get my money.”

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The Ragga Queen

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The water was smooth as glass and from a mile away we could see fish breaking the surface as they played life or death games of cat and mouse. We were well into the third day of the trip, the sun already at its domineering apex, making every inch of shade on the boat a precious commodity. Bodies were huddled together in the tiny cabin, their backs an autumnal display of vivacious reds and peeling skin as the speakers made another pass of an old Marley record. The wind was dead so our sailboat motored South, tracing a path between the second largest reef in the world to our East and the string of offshore islands to our West. Every now and then we slid past another tiny uninhabited isle and the shallow white sands sparkled under the high sun. Sitting on the starboard rails I dangled my feet over the azure waters and let my mind slip away. Out of nowhere the boat made an abrupt 180 and killed the engine. The captain yelled to his two mates in frantic Creole before all three threw themselves off the other side of the boat into the sea, leaving the unmanned vessel lolling aimlessly. Everyone scrambled to see what was happening and called down to the crew but they were in the silent world beneath the surface, their spear guns glinting in the light. I clambered to the roof of the cabin and squinted into the water just in time to see Shane from the crew dragging an enormous monster to the surface by the three spears dug into its flesh.
“Issa biggun, gimme a hand wit dis man”, he was breathing heavy as a group of four guys helped him hoist the leviathan out of the water and onto the deck.
“We keepin dis guy. Ragamuffin crew gonna hab a partay.”

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I was feeling a bit melancholic, I had come to Caye Caulker looking for a relaxing island paradise only to find an island wide party that had the music turned up past ten so that it drifted into every nook and cranny making it impossible to ever relax. It didn’t help that every day was cloudy, that the island was overrun with people, and that there were no real beaches, just the sandy spit at the tip of the island that was dominated by another music blasting bar. The friends I had found had just left so I wandered the sandy lane alone watching the sky shift thru a kaleidoscope of orange wondering what my next plan of attack would be. Just then, like a sign from the gods, a huge sign stood in my path, ‘Three day sail! Tuesday morning at 7! Only a few spots left!’. I had heard about the sailing trip from other travelers I passed, every one of them saying its a must if I had the time and money. I wandered inside the little Ragamuffin shack and asked about space.
“We’ve got eighteen people on the list so far but we’ve always got space for one more. Be back here at six in the morning to load, that gives you about nine hours to get yourself ready.”

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We set sail under cloudless skies, the tall white sail filling with the warm winds of the inner passage. Everyone crowded for space on the top deck, slathering sunscreen on their white skin and unfolding their limbs to get the most of the tropical sun. I stood under the shade of the massive sail and watched another traveler reel in barracuda after barracuda from the lines trailing in our wake, their menacing teeth gnarled in a confused rage. We puttered
down the coast stopping every so often at some far flung reef or deserted isle where we filed into the sea like drunken penguins to flap about in the clear waters and play follow the leader through the massive coral gardens. At one point the captain hit the brakes and rushed everyone into the water, “Manatee, go, go, go”. Everyone fumbled over each other on the deck as they fought to come out of the trance induced by the gently rolling waves and infinite sun. I threw on my flippers and leaped off the cabin roof with mask in hand, almost landing on someone swimming out from under the boat. In the water the manatee flapped about, impervious to our arrival. She was fluffing the sea grass at the bottom with her big round tennis racket hands and in the quiet of the watery world I could hear her munching heartily on her afternoon snack. The true cow of the sea. Everyone slowly tired of watching her graze and swam back to the boat where the ongoing flipping and diving contest proceeded off the top deck, only ending on the third day when one guy took home gold with a rum assisted running leap into ten foot belly flop onto sunburned belly. As the sun began its horizontal approach we motored into a tiny uninhabited island with a smattering of crooked palm trees.

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“Okay tonight you have Rendezvous Caye to yourselves. You can pitch your tent anywhere on the island then swim around or lay on the beach while we prepare your dinner. Please don’t forget you have already paid for all the rum with the cost of your trip and whatever you guys don’t finish we happily will.”
The tents and sleeping bags were piled on the weathered dock next to two enormous water coolers full of rum punch and everyone’s tents slowly went up in disastrous drunken fashion. As the sun descended into an orange orb I waded into the sea amongst walls of conch shells and five foot rays, kicking through the maze of shallow reefs as I circumnavigated the island. Back at the makeshift dinner table the barracudas and lobsters we had caught over the course of the day were brought out in a mango curry sauce and presented with oohs and ahhs. Everyone’s faces glowed red from the relentless sun and rum punch and in short fashion tired bodies disappeared into the dark of the island.

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The next two days were more of the same, swimming, snorkeling, sunning, and snoozing. The thought of buying a boat to sail around the world started to sound pretty good. We passed more manatees and giant rays and even hooked a six foot snake that was passing between two islands. The captain pulled him out of the water and when we threw him back in he chased after the boat like he had beef to settle. On the second day the rum punch was unleashed on us even earlier and by lunch time we were let loose into the sea with cups in one hand and spear guns in the other. Miraculously, the only things impaled were barracudas, lobsters, and a heaping pile of lion fish whom the crew pursued relentlessly thanks to their invasive status and tendency to murder the indigenous fish. Poisonous, their bodies were left in a heap on the ocean floor as a warning to other lion fishes that might pass by. Back on the boat we devoured ceviche and stared off at the empty horizon, our frames filled entirely in shimmering blues. The crew was singing along to every reggae track and flipping over our heads from the top deck. In a lull between tracks a girl called out to the dread headed first mate in the water, “I don’t think anyone would mind if we just kept sailing right on down to Columbia.”

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